A Naga kitchen is like a mother’s hug- warm, cozy, and comfy. This may seem like a bit of a contradiction given the Nagas’ reputation as fearsome warriors who (among other pursuits) displayed the heads of their enemies as trophies. But having experienced the pleasures of this special place, all I can guess is that perhaps the way through a Naga man’s heart is through his,er …kitchen? But I digress.
I had this amazing opportunity to spend a few days in this small Naga village well off the beaten path. The setting was idyllic, the villagers warm and welcoming and I left with my head intact and noticeably well fed. I also quickly realized that the kitchen was the nerve centre of the Naga household– eating, socializing, singing, talking, studying; it all happened here. This was ground zero.
The kitchen is always in a separate building but close to the main house. An open fire occupies one corner over which hangs a frame (of sorts), on which foodstuffs are naturally dried by the smoke. Is also a good place to huddle around, watch the dancing flames and wait to be fed! Sooner rather than later you will be!
Fiery chillies, sweet bananas and roasted corn – all home grown and as organic as it gets. The chilly is called U-morok or King Chilly and if not given its due respect will reduce you to a red faced puddle of sweat and tears bawling for your mummy. I kid you not because it happened to me! Random fact – the Nagas do not drink milk.
The Nagas obviously haven’t heard about the best chefs being men, so the women are in charge of the cooking. They also work in the field so its not easy being the lady of the house. But they handle it with amazing grace and I never saw a sad or sullen face in all the time I was there. Or maybe because they were too busy laughing at me (post my chilly eating performance)?
Rice (a sticky version) is the staple diet and eaten for all three meals. Ingredients for other dishes like fish, bamboo, wild boar, berries, nuts, mushrooms, snails & herbs involve a quick trip to the nearest stream or jungle. It’s self service with no cash, no card or parking required. It doesn’t get more authentic then this, I assure you.The food is delicious (even if some of the dishes need an acquired taste). Its healthy too as very little oil is used.
And finally that DIY corner in each kitchen which stocks everything a self respecting Naga needs to carryout their daily chores. So, your average Naga kitchen is not fancy or full of gizmos but its real, lived in and welcoming. I guarantee you that you will leave with a smile and a burp.
